Dove annoys sleeping cat
PET Paradise - Dove annoys sleeping cat from Onlinework4yu on Vimeo.
Behavior tips for an aggressive parrot
Behavior tips for an aggressive parrot
Between my two parrots, my husband and I have two very opposite personalities to cater to.Conrad is happy-go-lucky most of the time, but does get angry if
things don't go his way. He has never bitten me out of aggression or
fear.
He is very well-trained and 'steps up' well, poops in his area
(most of the time! they don't have bladders - can you blame them?) and
has a healthy appetite, usually trying everything I give him.
Andrea on the other hand is quite moody and territorial, but is very calm. She is content to sit and watch you make dinner or do homework (in my case!). She doesn't care for new foods, and will only pig out on her 'favorites' - kiwi, banana, peas, beans, carrots and pasta.
She appears to also has a thing against other females
She has become quite aggressive towards me lately, while behaving
well with my husband. The 'attacks' have happened three times and have
been unrelated to territory - she was in an open space with no 'caves'
to protect. I can only think that she is 'defending' a territory that I
didn't realize she owned - like my laptop (the site of 'attack' # 1) -
and the living room rug (# 2).
I've had a lot of experience with training aggressive parrots - my most successful case being a pet store cage-aggressive green wing macaw named Oscar. I have the scars to prove how difficult the process was, but, by the time I was done with him, he had turned into a big baby, allowing head scratches and cuddling. He was completely trained on positive reinforcement alone, but was prone to 'realizing' he was sitting on a human hand and biting it...
Perhaps I'm just tired of new scars, but I have been looking for ways to train a parrot that will take me out of the line of fire. Andrea seems to be a common case where she has chosen a favorite human and is wreaking havoc on the unchosen.
Some techniques I have chosen to deal with the Madame's (our pet name...for our resident red bird) focused aggression:
- Leaving the room when she goes into 'aggressive mode.' She will jump into her food dish to defend it, if she is in her cage.
- Overly-praising her for stepping up out of her cage.
- No more shoulder time. No bird should be allowed on shoulders due to dominance issues. (If held higher or level with your head, birds tend to get a 'big head' on their shoulders.) We had grown lax with that rule since it's so easy to just put them there when you're doing something.
- Tempting her with treats when she seems reluctant to be with me.
The last probably isn't the best, but we are making progress. I have not tried picking her up from any of the crime scenes - I don't think we're quite there yet. When she does get to one of those places, I do tend to call my husband to retrieve her, rather than suffering the imminent bite.
Andrea on the other hand is quite moody and territorial, but is very calm. She is content to sit and watch you make dinner or do homework (in my case!). She doesn't care for new foods, and will only pig out on her 'favorites' - kiwi, banana, peas, beans, carrots and pasta.
She appears to also has a thing against other females
I've had a lot of experience with training aggressive parrots - my most successful case being a pet store cage-aggressive green wing macaw named Oscar. I have the scars to prove how difficult the process was, but, by the time I was done with him, he had turned into a big baby, allowing head scratches and cuddling. He was completely trained on positive reinforcement alone, but was prone to 'realizing' he was sitting on a human hand and biting it...
Perhaps I'm just tired of new scars, but I have been looking for ways to train a parrot that will take me out of the line of fire. Andrea seems to be a common case where she has chosen a favorite human and is wreaking havoc on the unchosen.
Some techniques I have chosen to deal with the Madame's (our pet name...for our resident red bird) focused aggression:
- Leaving the room when she goes into 'aggressive mode.' She will jump into her food dish to defend it, if she is in her cage.
- Overly-praising her for stepping up out of her cage.
- No more shoulder time. No bird should be allowed on shoulders due to dominance issues. (If held higher or level with your head, birds tend to get a 'big head' on their shoulders.) We had grown lax with that rule since it's so easy to just put them there when you're doing something.
- Tempting her with treats when she seems reluctant to be with me.
The last probably isn't the best, but we are making progress. I have not tried picking her up from any of the crime scenes - I don't think we're quite there yet. When she does get to one of those places, I do tend to call my husband to retrieve her, rather than suffering the imminent bite.
Does your parrot sing?
Does your parrot sing
He is a cute talking Green PARROT Must watch this video and tell us how is it,,
Does your parrot sing?
Does your parrot sing -- from Onlinework4yu on Vimeo.
He is a cute talking Green PARROT Must watch this video and tell us how is it,,
Does your parrot sing -- from Onlinework4yu on Vimeo.
The White Cockatoo Parrot is Laughing
The White Cockatoo is around 46 cm (18 in) long, and weighs about 400 g (14 oz) for small females and up to 800 g (28 oz) for big males. The male White Cockatoo usually has a broader head
The feathers of the White Cockatoo are mostly white. However, both upper and lower surfaces of the inner half of the trailing edge of the large wing feathers are a yellow color. The yellow color on the underside of the wings is most notable because the yellow portion of the upper surface of the feather is covered by the white of the feather immediately medial (nearer to the body) and above.
The White Cockatoo Parrot is Laughing video Must watch this video
Laughing bird from Onlinework4yu on Vimeo.
Similarly, areas of larger tail feathers that are covered by other tail feathers – and the innermost covered areas of the larger crest feathers – are yellow. Short white feathers grow from and closely cover the upper legs. The feathers of this species and others create a powder similar to talcum powder that easily transfers to clothing.
In common with other cockatoos and parrots, the White Cockatoo has zygodactyl feet with two toes facing forward and two facing backward, which enable it to grasp objects with one foot while standing on the other, for feeding and manipulation.
Whilst the maximum lifespan of the White Cockatoo is poorly documented; a few zoos report that they live 40–60 years in captivity. Anecdotal reports suggest it can live longer. Lifespan in the wild is unknown, but believed to be as much as ten years less.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)